4 Mins Read
The one thing Dr Andrew Markey - world-renowned dermatologist and BEAUTY PIE’s Consultant Dermatologist in Residence - believes is that skincare shouldn’t be complicated. So he’s developed a foolproof way to remember what he believes are the three pillars of great ‘age management’: your ‘Skincare A, B C’.
“If you think about aging skin, what’s at the heart of it is damage,” Dr Markey explains. “And there are three skincare ingredients which work beautifully together to help slow down the aging process. And conveniently they just so happen to be called A, B and C.”
If you think about aging skin, what’s at the heart of it is damage.
You probably know these three ingredients better by other names. The ‘A’ is Vitamin A, which in skincare is more commonly called Retinol, from the family of retinoids. Vitamin B? That would be Niacinamide, a brilliantly-skin soothing form of Vitamin B3. And finally, not needing any explanation, the ‘C’ stands for Vitamin C - the super-skin brightener.
And there’s one final step that has a three-letter acronym all of its own: SPF. “Once you add suncare management onto the ABC, you absolutely have the core of what you should be looking for in a great skincare regime,” says Dr Markey.
“Ask yourself: ‘Is there a bit of A, bit of B and bit of C in my regime - and is there a lot of SPF?”.
“Retinol breaks down to Retinoic Acid in the skin. It speeds up cellular turnover - switching on cells ‘keratinocytes’ and ‘fibroblasts’,” says Dr Markey. “Everything gets supercharged - glow, firmness, fine lines, smoothness - and texture changes. It’s a dermatologist's favorite gold standard go-to treatment for skin problems.”
“Super Retinol + Vitamin C Night Renewal Moisturizer is an excellent and gentle introduction to using Retinol,” says Dr Markey. “BEAUTY PIE’s Super Retinol range is very well researched with proven effects on the skin. I like that the range has gentle concentrations, which is a good thing as too many people are walking around with too much irritation and inflammation from using too aggressive actives on the skin. So start gently, whether you think you have sensitive skin or not.”
Ever want to hit ‘REFRESH’ on your face? This superstar Swiss overnight formula has everything anti-aging in it – Encapsulated Retinol (resurfacing), Ficucell Vita (antioxidant), Shea Butter (nourishing), Vitamins E and C (elasticity) and Ferulic and Hyaluronic Acids (plumping and hydrating). It’s super-smoothing, fine-line and wrinkle tackling, brightening, and we think possibly the best Retinol night moisturizer ever.
“If Retinol is my skincare ‘wow,’ then for me, Niacinamide - or Vitamin B3 - is all about calming,” says Dr Markey. That’s why dermatologists love it - it’s a really helpful molecule that soothes and calms skin, so it works really well in conjunction with other active ingredients. Niacinamide helps rebuild the barrier function of the skin, and also triggers the production of ceramides. “It helps with pore refinement - and is really useful for helping even out pigmentation - plus vascular discoloration and spottiness on the chest, which drives clients bonkers.”
“A lot of patients complain about age spots on their neck and chest,” says Dr Markey. “Niacinamide features prominently in BEAUTY PIE’s Uber Youth Neck & Chest Spray. Being a spray it’s also lovely and light and refreshing to use.”
This high-tech powerhouse has got 5% Niacinamide to brighten and lift the look of sunspots, 4% Idealift Peptides to fight the sag, and so many lifting ingredients you might need anti-gravity boots just to use it.
We wanted to make a Niacinamide Serum that was next level, and though we say it ourselves, this one is just excellent. With 10% Niacinamide for barrier strengthening, improved elasticity, boosted ceramide production and more, 2% Oxygeskin which helps reduce the appearance of pores while refining and smoothing the skin’s surface, and 3% Evermat which makes large pores look like they’ve shrunk, plus Oleanolic Acid and Arctic Cloudberry, for an absolutely incredible healthy skin glow.
Use after toner or essence, under serum or moisturizer. Swiss. For all skin types, but a particular must-have for breakouts and rosacea. Vegan. Cruelty-free (of course). And clean.
“Vitamin C (or Ascorbic Acid as it’s also known) and its brightening benefits appeal to everybody,” says Dr Markey. “In a skincare program, it’s an absolute master at prevention, and helping to reduce ongoing damage. Because it’s an antioxidant, it gobbles up free radicals. It stops inflammation which can be caused by UV light and environmental pollutants. It stimulates new collagen and helps the stability of new collagen, too. It protects skin from developing a pigment response and helps with brightness and evenness of skin tone. It increases the skin’s tolerance to UV light and acts as a subtle SPF in addition to the sunscreen you are using. It’s also safe to use during pregnancy.”
Super-targeted ‘one-shot’ capsules which hold high doses of stable actives, dispensed with a simple twist, squeeze and tap. A double dose of pure Vitamin C is boosted with Vitamin E acetate for moisture and antioxidation. They also help to firm, smooth and brighten, minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. A daily must-have anti-aging vitamin dose for your skin.
“You MUST MUST MUST use a broad spectrum sunscreen - it’s a critical component of Sun Management,” says Dr Markey.
“A number is not the best way to decide,” says Dr Markey. “We all have different skin types. You could have someone with well-preserved skin at 40 years old, and someone aged 22 already showing signs of sun damage due to lots of holidays in the sunshine. The general rule is to start in your 30s and apply the ABC approach rigidly - but many can benefit from starting in their 20s. (And parents should always apply the Sun Management habits to their children.)”
“I always try to emphasize and point out that the answer to successful anti-aging is CONSISTENCY,” says Dr Markey. “Sun damage changes are persistent conditions, so you must be persistent in treatment. The skin cycle is actually about 40 days (or six weeks), so give creams enough time to do their jobs. You need six weeks from the bottom of the epidermis to the top to get good results. And then ideally, continue this for a second and third time. That’s when you’ll really get the outcome you want.”
Ask yourself: ‘Is there a bit of A, bit of B and bit of C in my regime - and is there a lot of SPF