The Beauty Dept / What every luxury skincare brand doesn’t want you to know.
WORDS BY BEAUTY PIE staff
What every luxury skincare brand
doesn’t want you to know.
The unbelievable ten-percent rule (and why Beauty Pie - the revolutionary new buyer's club for beauty addicts - refuses to abide by it).
An interview with Creative Advisor-at-Large Beauty Pie's Marcia Kilgore – skincare guru, celeb-facialist, Founder of Bliss Spas, inventor of the Oxygen Facial and the woman Oprah Winfrey called one of the most passionate people she’d ever met - on why you might want to reconsider paying retail for high-end skincare.
Marcia, why was it so satisfying for you to add a lineup of high-performance skincare products to the product assortment at Beauty Pie?
Well, most people will be shocked when they find out how much a high-performance skincare product really costs to manufacture. Why? Because just like with makeup, the lion’s share of what you fork out when you buy beauty at ‘retail’ is what we at Beauty Pie HQ shorthand as LMAO:
Think about it – which of those four letters makes you look any better? Strip them out and you not only feel a lot better about what you’re paying for – and applying - on your face, but it’s likely you’ll be able to afford world-class high-performance skincare 24/7, and maybe even have doubles in your gym kit.
So is the difference between mass and class skincare just packaging and promotion?
Not entirely. Higher-performance skincare formulas are absolutely more expensive to manufacture. The labs that make them – at least the ones we work with - have world-class chemists, stringent quality standards, wider-ingredient sourcing and testing, higher-tech emulsifying equipment, use the best actives and top quality of peripherals (like emulsifiers, antioxidants, preservatives) from trusted, tested and reputable and audited suppliers. All of that adds up, but might mean the difference between a 50 ml mass market ‘fill’ that costs 80p, versus a 50 ml high-performance ‘fill’ that costs £5.80 (then you add packaging, safety testing, filling, quality control).
You said you were ‘desperate’ to add skincare to the BEAUTY PIE lineup. Tell us why.
I started my beauty career in my twenties, giving facials in a one-room studio in Soho, NYC, having gone to esthetics school to fix my own breakout-covered face. I was lucky, knew a few people in the modeling/entertainment industry and ended up with everybody from Demi Moore to Madonna laying on my table. Word spread. My waiting list boomed.
And when I opened Bliss Spa in 1996, it became the ‘go to’ face place in New York for everybody - from secretaries to supermodels – but my clients were on blindingly different budgets. And I never really felt it was fair that the wealthier people could afford really effective ‘follow up’ products, and everybody else had to make do with basics.
Fast forward to three years ago, when I had dinner with one of the ‘big guys’ of the beauty industry. He gave me three pieces of advice; and the third one really stuck with me -
"If you want to survive as a brand, your cost of goods can never be higher than 10%."
And as I’ve processed that advice, being a big lover of great skincare myself (and knowing hundreds of others that are equally obsessed) the notion that ‘ten percent’ cost of goods was a fair deal for the customer has become totally unacceptable to me.
So every Duty Free and department store I’ve walked through looks really different now. Because it doesn’t seem right that women looking for great product (makeup OR skincare or anything, really) should only be getting 10% for their money.
Does Beauty Pie have a target customer?
Absolutely. Beauty Pie skincare is for who wishes they could afford to use top of the line skincare every single day without worrying about it breaking their budget.
Are there any ‘hero’ products that we should know about?
Every Beauty Pie skincare product is a hero. We’ve gone to the best Swiss, Italian, Korean, Japanese and British labs, and worked with them to create skin genius!
The SUPERACTIVE CAPSULES ESSENTIAL CERAMIDES + which are like liquid gold for dry or redness-prone skin.
The PLANTASTIC MICRO PEELING SUPER DROPS, which gently and effortlessly deliver beautifully smooth skin, and you can use them under anything (moisture cream, serum, sunscreen).
The SUPERDOSE™ VITAMIN C OXYGEN BOOSTING MOISTURIZER, because it is just unbelievably active. I used it for three days in a row after a bit of a ‘dearth’ of good moisturizer, and the transformation was nothing short of miraculous. It’s moisture, smoothing, brightening, re-energizing, firming healthy skin - in a daily slather.
And don’t get me started on the cleansers and serums. Unless you have all day…
You can shop Beauty Pie skincare (and makeup) at typical prices (where we’ve applied the 10 percent rule), or JOIN BEAUTY PIE and access our unbeatable members' prices, with no celebrity marketing and no retailer markups. What are you waiting for?SHOP SKINCARE
At BEAUTY PIE, our mission is to make you feel like a kid in a cosmetics candy store.
To bring you the fairy tale. To deliver the absolute best in beauty nonstop, at prices so amazing, even a splurge is a steal.
Because there should be no guilt in getting gorgeous.